These mods are strictly do 'at your own risk' and are not required and could void your warranty. If you have any problems because of damage please try and take care of them with your distributor. We just like to push things to their limits.
The original hotbed does not come with the typical LED heating indicator that you usually find on the 3d printer hotbeds of this type. It was probably left off because the hotbed is mounted upside down and you would not see it anyways. I ended up mounting an LED and bended it up so I could have a visual indicator when the bed was being heated.
'While i think replacing the fan with a 12V is probably the best answer, this might be out of some folks skill set since the wires to the fan are soldered and heatshrinked at the entrance to the cable chain just above the extruder.'
If you can solder, great, then the best thing long term is place a screw terminal block on the wires making connecting any fan or replacement fan that much easier in the future. Obviously the fan is red and black wires so just match colors.
Instructions:
'As the controller case can get warm, this mod makes a big difference. The power supply has a fan that usually draws air into the power supply and vents out the top through the fan and the (original) enclosure has air vents at the top to vent air out but no way for air to enter into the enclosure. We came up with a quick back plate that can be laser cut (why not, Jetguy has everything) or 3d printed and can be used as is or extra 40mm fans can be mounted to help pull air into the enclosure. I ended up using the top fan since it also blows across the main printer circuit board. With this mod my enclosure no longer gets warm to the touch.
Instructions:
Files:
The original extruder gear is made from brass and has larger, less sharp teeth to bite into the filament. Jetguy did some test prints and found the I3 gear did not print as well at finer detail than the original Duplicator 4 or Flash Forge gears did. The following page has more information on that test and the gears.
WANHAO I3 Adjustable Z endstop by David Boyd: Built this to accomplish two things. First, raise the default end-stop position high enough to allow my 3mm Borosilicate glass to fit. Second, I wanted a way once I had everything level to do very fine adjustments to the Z height. This would allow me to switch out different glass or other materials (garrolite for nylon if we get an all metal hot end), etc.
(Slightly modified version Photo)
This part was designed to hold my 4mm OD, 2mm ID PTFE filament guide tube. It mounts to the top left of the frame. The filament and tube can be removed easily be sliding it out of the slot.